Unlocking the Beauty of Burgundy

Whether you’re a certified wine lover, a dedicated collector or someone who has ever been handed a wine list - there’s no doubt you’re aware of a place called Burgundy. Nestled in the eastern part of France, Burgundy is renowned for its exceptional terroir, which yields some of the most exquisite wines ever made. With a legacy steeped in tradition and a commitment to quality, Burgundy stands as a beacon of vinicultural heritage, captivating the heart and palate (and wallets) of wine enthusiasts from around the globe.

Unravelling a Long History

To truly appreciate Burgundy wines, it's essential to understand their rich history. Dating back centuries, the region's viticultural roots can be traced to the Roman era when vine cultivation flourished along the fertile slopes of Burgundy. However, it was the monastic orders of the Middle Ages that truly cultivated Burgundy's winemaking legacy.

Monks, with their meticulous attention to detail and reverence for the land, played a pivotal role in shaping Burgundy's vineyards and refining winemaking techniques. They recognised the unique terroirs scattered throughout the landscape, and set about meticulously categorising and tending to each parcel of land to optimise grape quality and flavour expression.

As the Middle Ages gave way to the Renaissance, Burgundy's wines gained international acclaim, coveted by royalty and connoisseurs alike. The Duchy of Burgundy emerged as a cultural and economic powerhouse, with its wines prized for their purity, elegance, and age-worthiness.

However, the 19th century brought both triumph and tribulation to Burgundy's winemakers. The phylloxera epidemic devastated vineyards across Europe, including those of Burgundy, leading to widespread destruction and economic hardship. Yet, Burgundian winemakers persevered, replanting vineyards with disease-resistant rootstocks and embracing modern viticultural practices to revive their beloved terroirs.

In the 20th century, Burgundy experienced a renaissance of sorts, propelled by a renewed focus on quality and authenticity. Winemakers began to reclaim abandoned vineyards, rediscovering forgotten terroirs and grape varieties.

Echoes of Napoleon

In the late 15th century, Burgundy's fate became intertwined with that of France, then under monarchical rule. However, the winds of change swept through the land with the French Revolution, reshaping the landscape of Burgundy's vineyards. As part of the revolutionary fervour, the church's vast land holdings were seized and auctioned off to private owners, heralding a new era of ownership and stewardship. Yet, the division of these lands was a complex affair. Implementing the Code Napoléon mandated equal inheritance distribution among heirs, leading to the fragmentation of estates over successive generations. Today, the legacy of this division is evident in Burgundy's vineyards, where châteaux may boast dozens of owners, each holding sway over only a few rows of vines. This intricate web of ownership underscores the unique character of Burgundy's winemaking landscape, where tradition and heritage intersect with the complexities of modern inheritance law.

Grapes Galore: The Stars of Burgundy

Burgundy is synonymous with two noble grape varieties: Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. Pinot Noir, native to Burgundy, flourishes in limestone and clay soils, yielding wines of remarkable complexity. Ranging in colour from cherry to brick, these light-bodied red wines offer delicate red fruit and spicy notes. While Gamay, another red grape, is cultivated in Burgundy, it only constitutes roughly 10% of the vines planted (this may be because in 1395 it was actually once banned, as it was feared it would overtake Pinot Noir given how prolifically it grew).

Chardonnay takes centre stage as Burgundy's primary white grape, thriving in Burgundy's marl soil, yielding wines with delicate floral, fruit, and mineral aromas, alongside full-bodied flavours. Aligoté, the region's secondary white grape, accounts for 6% of vineyard cultivation.

Burgundy also produces a notable sparkling wine, Crémant de Bourgogne, crafted from a blend of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Aligoté and Gamay. This sparkling wine comes in various styles, including blanc, blanc de blancs, blanc de noirs, and rosé.

Terroir Terroir Everywhere: Exploring Burgundy's Geographical Diversity

One of Burgundy's most captivating features is its patchwork of terroirs, each contributing to the kaleidoscope of flavours found in its wines. Spanning just 150km, the region is divided into distinctive sub-regions, each with its own terroir and characteristics.

Chablis and Grand Auxerrois lie in the northwest corner, where the iconic Chablis wines, crafted solely from Chardonnay grapes, are made. Across the Serein River, Petit Chablis offers a lighter alternative, brimming with citrus and floral notes. Meanwhile, Grand Auxerrois boasts diversity across its four areas, from the Chardonnay and Aligoté whites to Pinot Noir and Gamay reds.

In the narrow strip from Dijon to Nuits St George, the Côte de Nuits emerges as the powerhouse of red wines, boasting Burgundy's majority of Grand Crus. Yet, it also yields a select few whites and rosés, with its powerful reds standing as global benchmarks of excellence. Nearby, the Côte de Beaune stretches from Ladoix-Serrigny to the Maranges communes, boasting numerous Grand Crus and Premier Cru wines. Notably, Côte de Beaune is home to 7 of the 8 white wine Grand Crus.

Further south, the Côte Chalonnaise unfolds with its hilly terrain. Here, Pinot Noir and Chardonnay both reign supreme, complemented by a touch of Aligoté. Notably, Bouzeron stands as the sole appellation dedicated exclusively to white wine from the Aligoté grape. Lastly, nestled between valleys, Mâconnaise spans 22 miles, primarily cultivating Chardonnay grapes with a hint of Gamay.

Village to Grand Cru: Let’s Talk Classification

Out of all the French wine regions, understanding the wine labels of Burgundy is perhaps the most important. Once you have your vintage and producer clear, there’s the matter of exactly the quality of the vineyard it’s from to decipher.

At the top of Burgundy's wine pyramid are the Grand Crus, the crème de la crème, representing just 1.3% of production across 33 designated crus. These wines are like gems, each sip a treasure trove of flavour. Next up are the Premier Crus, a diverse bunch making up 9.3% of Burgundy's wines - always intriguing and full of surprises.

Then there are the Village wines, the heart and soul of Burgundy, making up over a third of production. These wines embody the spirit of their villages, each one reflecting the collective spirit of its community of vines. Lastly, there are the Regional wines, the everyday heroes, making up the majority at 51.3% of production. They may not have fancy labels but they are delicious and can offer incredible value.

Evolution in Motion: The Changing Styles of Burgundy Wines

While Burgundy's winemaking traditions run deep, the region is also marked by a spirit of innovation and evolution. Over the years, winemakers have embraced modern techniques and practices while staying true to the essence of Burgundian winemaking, this is no more evident in the increasing embrace of organic and biodynamic practices throughout the region. This dynamic blend of tradition and innovation has led to the emergence of new styles, fresh talent and concentrated expressions, offering us all the benefits of Burgundy's ever-evolving landscape.